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    Replacing Old Door Skins Part 2

Back to Part One


A small 3AAAX gun set to low pressure will break the welds cleanly, if the chisel is sharp.  (In some cases, as when the frame is much thicker than the skin, it's unnecessary to burr the welds first since careful lift-and-chiseling will break the weld and leave the nugget on the frame, well -98% of the time.)


 

 

These bumps are to be carefully sanded down, so the skin will again lay flat. (Because of the lifting action of the chisel, minor high spots come up which are tapped down with a plastic hammer over a block of wood.)


 

 

 

 

The finished surface is flat and smooth.

 

 


 

Continue

 

 

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