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    Classic Car Body Work

Kent,

I very much enjoy working on classic cars. Real body work, not filling voids with plastic, has always interested me.  So shaping steel, aluminum, welding sheet metal, manipulating metal is where I'm at. I have experience with gas welding, stick welding, and becoming better at MIG.  I find the instruction manuals offered at Borders too broad and would be interested in any printed instructional material you might suggest. Robert

The Tinman Respondeth:

Robert,

Please see website. Video, Basic Damage Repair on the Aluminum Body Video, Fender Arches Etc. apply to the beginner. Kent


Kent,

Looked pretty extensively at your web site.  Most of the literature was geared toward working with aluminum as opposed to sheet steel which is what I encounter with auto restorations.  Didn't see the fender arch book you mentioned in your response.  I appreciated your quick response.  One quick question while I'm on the keyboard:  What is the secret on butt welding 20 ga. sheet steel without burning through after an inch of weld ?  I am using a Miller 130xp with .023 wire and an argon CO2 mixture gas shield, feed speed 45 and power level1.  I've practiced my but off but haven't improved. Regards, Bob Schlipf

The Tinman Respondeth:

Bob,

MIG is designed for skip welds. You are doing fine. Skip and dab is all you do. Gas weld if you want the real efficient deal. Kent.

Kent,

I don't mind gas welding but I've never been good at getting rid of the warpage caused by the heat.  Especially if you can't get to the back side of the metal to help with reshaping. Bob

The Tinman Respondeth:

Bob,

If you can't handle the distortion, then you are facing another equal complexity, and have exchanged one devil for another. On blind panels, the MIG dab-dab-dab-dab method of linked spot nuggets is the way to go...but it will never hold water---and the strength might not be happy.

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